Villages and scenery in the Gran Sasso National Park, in the Abruzzo region of central Italy, are stunningly beautiful. This itinerary takes you to the picturesque medieval hill town of Santo Stefano di Sessanio and the abandoned Rocca Calascio, then to caverns with a waterfall inside and Roman ruins. This part of the Abruzzo region is best explored by car because most of these places aren’t easy to reach using public transportation.
Gran Sasso National Park Villages
Santo Stefano di Sessanio, about 20 miles east of the city of L’Aquila, is one of the most picturesque towns in Abruzzo. Start your visit by walking through the medieval gate with the Medici coat of arms to the main square. The village center, still enclosed by medieval walls, has several little streets and alleyways to explore. Its main monument, the Medici Tower, fell down during the earthquake of 2009. Many medieval buildings and a few churches remain. Since many residents left to find work elsewhere just over 100 inhabitants remain but the village is being revived by tourism. Santo Stefano is one of the Borghi piu Belli d’Italia, most beautiful villages of Italy.
In town are a few shops and places to eat or drink and an interesting hotel, Albergo Diffuso Sextantio with rooms reflecting the town’s traditions and history. Another place to stay in town is Residenza la Torre with self-catering apartments.
Continue up the mountain road to Rocca Calascio, remains of the highest fortress in the Appenine Mountains, at 4,790 feet above sea level. Built for the military, it dates from the 10th century and has sweeping views of the mountains and valleys. Although damaged by earthquakes, the ruins are impressive and fun to explore. Nearby is an octagonal 17th century church, Santa Maria della Pieta’.
In the little village below the castle have lunch at Rifugio della Rocca, a very good, inexpensive restaurant serving traditional dishes of the area. They also have simple rooms for overnight stays.
From Rocca Calascio, continue to the medieval village of Castel del Monte, set in the mountainside. Castel del Monte is another of the Borghi Piu Belli d’Italia. Much of the movie, the American, was filmed here. The town has a Museum of Wool, churches. and restaurants, bars, and shops. It’s known for its canestrato cheese, made from sheep and goat’s milk, and for its Night of Witches festival on August 17.
Movies Made in Abruzzo’s Gran Sasso Park: Rocca Calascio was used as a movie set for scenes from The Name of the Rose and The American starring George Clooney. The village of Castelvecchio Calvisio, a stop on your return down the mountain, suffered huge damage in the earthquake of 2009 and was almost completely abandoned. More scenes from the movie, The American, were shot there.
Grotte di Stife Caverns and Peltuinum Roman Ruins
Grotte di Stife, near the village of San Demetrio ne’ Vestini, is one of Italy’s most beautiful caverns. If you visit in spring, you’ll usually be able to see the unique waterfall inside the cave. From December 8 – January 6 a beautiful nativity scene is set up inside the caves.
The caves are open from 10:00 to 18:00 from April through October with shorter hours the rest of the year. The visit lasts about an hour and is by guided tour only, arranged at the ticket office (at least 20 minutes in advance). The temperature inside the cave is constant at about 50 degrees F so bring a light jacket. Most hotels in the area, such as the Monastero listed below, offer discount vouchers. There’s a picnic area near the entrance so buy picnic supplies in advance and eat in the park. Check current hours and price on Visit San Demetrio.
From San Demetrio, take the road toward Prata di Ansidonia and then toward Castelnuovo on Via Principale Umberto. About half a mile from Prata di Ansidonia, is the turn off for the archaeological site of Peltuinum. The Roman town dates from the 1st century BC. At the site (currently free) are remains of the town walls, the theater, a temple, and other buildings. Peltuinum is known as the birthplace of Gnaeus Domitius Corbulo, Roman general during the time of Emperor Nero. Next to the site is a 12th century church.
For more scenery and villages, head south on the SS261 from San Demetrio through the Sirente-Velino Nature Park or take the SS17 from Castelnuovo, a pretty drive through the valley.
Recommended Abruzzo Lodging:
Monastero di Santo Spirito d’Ocre is a restored fortress monastery on a hill. It has 12 comfortable guest rooms, a garden, and beautiful views of the valley and Gran Sasso mountains. It’s about half an hour’s drive to Santo Stefano but only about 15 minutes to the caverns.
L’Aquila, Abruzzo City
In this area, L’Aquila is the largest city and makes a good base. In a scenic mountain setting, the medieval city has a castle with a museum, an interesting medieval quarter, and good shops, restaurants, and hotels. One of the top sights is the 13th century fountain with 99 water spouts in the form of heads. There were once 99 castles in the area surrounding L’Aquila but now only a few remain.
- Places to Stay in L’Aquila:
- Palazzo dei Pavoni Relais di Charme is a luxurious bed and breakfast in a historic palazzo in the center of L’Aquila.
- La Dimora del Baco has a spa, restaurant, and garden.
- Hotel San Michele is a small hotel in the center with parking.
More about Abruzzo:
Abruzzo Books: (on Amazon)- Abruzzo Travel Guide (Insiders Travel Guide)
- Italy: Abruzzo (Bradt Travel Guides)
- Walking in Abruzzo (Cicerone Guides)
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